Weekend Getaway: Sounds of Bali

Wheels Up -- SIN -- DPS, Air Asia

March 13, 2011:  I sit in bed after a long first day in Bali, with the sounds of a frisky frog chorus resounding outside. These are not your “ribbit, ribbit” frogs. Nope. This chorus sounds like something I’d here bumping with a heavy bass beat from Filter or Underground on a Saturday night. These frogs sounds like they are beat-boxing to save their lives. A few sound like strumming banjos. And there seems to be one particularly vocal one that strives to mimic a drunk duck.

I’ve returned to Bali for a second time since my arrival in Singapore in September. With all the places yet to see, you may find it strange I’ve already repeat-ed. But, this is a very different Balinese experience than my first visit in November with Louis.

Master bedroom @ Villa Hibiscus in Tanjong Benoa.
Booked through Balivillas.com

This time, I’ve brought my parents, who have traveled 25+ hours to visit me and see a bit of where I live. I like Singapore, but I want my guests to see more of Asia.

Bali seems to fascinate everyone – a lush, dramatic landscape filled with Hindu tradition, teak wood, suckling pig, Balinese that have nailed hospitality, and luxurious villas. It conjures up memories of the exotic paradise and the haunting Bali Hai melody from South Pacific.

We arrived on Sunday evening via Air Asia (good – I recommend, along with JetStar for in-Asia trips) and are met by our driver, an affable man who was born in Bali and never left. We fall into a clean air-conditioned Toyota and I brace myself for infamously inefficient Bali traffic. Last time, I headed southwest to Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali near Tanah Lot temple; this time, we head southeast to our villa in Tanjung Benoa near Nusa Dua.

Our staff

This villa experience is new for us. Balivillas.com was recommended by a friend, so I had booked a two bedroom villa that comes with a driver/car, butler, cook and dedicated house staff.






Balinese grilled chicken -- yum!



We arrive at Villa Hibiscus within a half hour or so (phew) and are greeted by our staff. The villa is breathtaking. Within the stone walled compound is a master bedroom with open air bathroom, along with a second bed and bath above. We continue to the private pool and open air living and dining space. The chef is busy at work preparing siap mepanggang (super tasty and moist grilled chicken), steamed rice and fresh fruit – a simple yet very tasty meal after our afternoon of travel. A soothing Balinese instrumental mix plays on the speakers. Those damn albino geckos dart around us (though, I have made peace with them).

We clink our glasses of local sparkling rose and enjoy our first home-cooked Balinese meal.





Open Air Living Space, Kitchen in the Background

 




Dad taking a dip post-dinner in the private plunge pool

 

Mom and I. Reasoning that, if we wear hats, the geckos won't fall on our heads from above.
Smart reasoning after a few glasses
of sparkling rose.



Weekend Getaway: Impromptu long weekend in Bali

I realize it was an unfair tease to post on our arrival in Bali, then say nothing of the rest of trip. Quite simply, our three nights in Bali were relaxing and uneventful. We stayed put at our lovely resort and didn't venture to really explore the island's restaurants, satay stands, teak furniture stores and huts. Next time. This time, we were content to lie around, read, catch up and have no schedule or things to do.

"Monsoon season" was manageable -- it rained a bit each day but cleared up quickly. The landscape was dramatic. We took breaks from the pool to stroll along the cliffs and look below at the violently churning Indian Ocean.

We faced west so sunsets were gorgeous, viewed from the comfortable verandas. The resort's food was sufficient -- nothing to write at length about but good enough to keep us satisfied for our time there.

The ride back to the airport was nauseating and mildly claustrophic. The flight home was comfortable with the usual Singapore Airlines' class.

Weekend Getaway: Bummin’ Around in Bali

All aboard! Singapore Airlines to Bali

We land at Bali’s Denpasar (DPS) airport around 7 p.m. on a Saturday night and race off the plane. Immigration is surprisingly easy – pay $25USD or the equivalent for a Visa on Arrival –  then exit the airport.

We are greeted by a crowd of 50 or so drivers waving various names in various languages. Fortunately, it doesn’t take us long to find our friendly greeter who welcomes us with a warm smile, two chilled bottles of water and hot towels. Ahh, relaxation begins. He guides us to our nice air-conditioned car and our Balinese driver, who is very eager to know if we had a comfortable flight and safe journey. He tells us we have a 45-minute ride to our hotel, the Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort, so we settle in. Louis, still jet-lagged from his US flight, essentially passes out so I am comforted by a soft snoring as we make our way to the southwest part of the island.

We had looked up on Google Maps directions from DPS to our hotel, so we had a sense of where we were going. It looked pretty straightforward on the map, so we expected we would be cruising along on a highway up the coast; after all, Bali has been pretty tourist-y for a few decades. Alas, no. Our drive consists of narrow two-lane roads (which really are the size of 1.5 lane roads…), continuously lined with local satay stands, shops (mostly closed by that time), small restaurants, countless craft/furniture huts and a chaotic buzz of motorbikes. It is pitch black, as there are no street lights of any kind. Our driver deftly navigates through alleys, streets that I swear are driveways, and motorbikes – sometimes with three people abroad – weaving in and out. It’s a wonder my motion sickness doesn’t kick in. 

We eventually are driving through more remote areas, which I imagine are bordered by rice paddies and local homes but can’t confirm in the darkness.  We turn into the long drive of our resort, and are immediately struck by how dramatic it seems. It’s a five-star property* on an award-winning golf course right on the cliffs of the Indian Ocean, so the driveway is long and flanked by dramatic landscaping, lighting and security guards. Five employees greet us as we pull up in front of the gorgeous open-air lobby; one to open the door, two to grab luggage, one to seemingly observe then wave over a gorgeous Balinese woman who presents a welcome drink of fresh squeezed juices and a ridiculously fragrant flower over our ears (Louis looks cute with a flower over his ear). 

View from our balcony

We are shown to our room, which is a basic deluxe suite, but we are pleasantly surprised at how luxe it is. Dark Balinese teak wood everywhere, spacious marble bathroom with rain shower and large tub, sitting area and large sliding doors that opened up to a lovely balcony with a view of the villas and property. Even a slice of Indian Ocean to the right!

By then it’s 830 and we’re hungry. We discuss popping down to one of the restaurants for a light dinner of grilled fish and chilled wine after a quick power nap. Well, the “power nap” turned into deep slumber from which wee didn’t wake for several hours so we’re off to a relaxing start to our Balinese getaway. 

* Don’t think we’re high rollers. Because we were there Saturday through Tuesday during monsoon season, we scored a great deal through Zuji (a Travelocity site) – two roundtrip Singapore Airlines tickets and three nights for about $450USD each. Nice!